ask them to give you the old one back , and perhaps you could take a foto of the part numbers
maybe you have a new revised one now , then we could check with our cars too
ask them to give you the old one back , and perhaps you could take a foto of the part numbers
maybe you have a new revised one now , then we could check with our cars too
the water will be consumed by the engine ,
to fix this , i dont know any thing else to this day other than replacing it with a new part when you have to fill up daily .
its known for these waterintcoolers leaking fluid internally . but when you say verrust ? do you have pictures ? i thought it was made out of aluminium
can you preheat your engine coolant also with this system ?
any transmission fluid will always contain particles from clutch packs . its normal because when you use gears , clutch packs engage and disengage . they have wear over time .
this isnt a bad thing to begin with . drain plugs or fluid pans do have magnetic strips to catch those particles . they are very fine too , if they would find bigger particles , its from gears or bearings
and then you have a bigger problem .
but since you say the problems are not always there , it could be a calibration issue aswell . i wonder what your service garage will tell you
it could be worse after your flush . prolly some faults in clutch packs or the mecatronic controlling those clutch packs .
maybe its better to have it diagnosed properly and afterwards do your flush
a usefull explanation of things
my knowledge of the german language isnt good enough to write it down . but i have no problems reading it
your lower iat's can only be beneficial if you have tune that takes advantage of it . normally a knock sensor pulls back timing advance when things get hot .
so you will need more octane to compensate for it . you could try with either ethanol blend or toluene ( nasty stuff but lots and lots of octane ).
i had very clean timings with 40 percent ethanol , no timing pulled across the whole rpm band , it actually means no power has been left on the table
the problem with ethanol is , your high pressure fuel pump has to be able to provide a higher flow rate , consumption goes up .
if you use 93oct ( 98ron ) or 95oct ( 102ron ) , you will always have some timing being pulled . but hey thats just the ecu doing its work .
i dont know if aftermarket turbo's are available for the gsi . a bigger compressor wheel puts less heat into the air compared to a smaller one
its almost like inflating tyres with a small high speed pump , the nozzle gets bloody hot .
perhaps you could do a few 100 to 200 runs before and after installment ?
i really wonder if it would make any difference at all
your car should do stock around 25sec on a flat plane ( 100 - 200km/h )
Ok, würde ich alle 10 tkm das Öl wechseln, dann müsste ich ebenfalls nichts nachfüllen. Logisch: Ich wäre dann ja gerade eben erst bei Minimum angekommen bzw. nach aktuellem Stand mal so gerade in der Mitte des Toleranzfensters. Von daher hat diese Beschreibung für mich irgendwie wenig Aussagekraft.
do you do a lot of short trips with the car ? lets say around 5 to 10km ?
i really do avoid this , heating cycles tend to use more oil .