Beiträge von INtour1.5d

my knowledge of the german language isnt good enough to write it down . but i have no problems reading it

your lower iat's can only be beneficial if you have tune that takes advantage of it . normally a knock sensor pulls back timing advance when things get hot .

so you will need more octane to compensate for it . you could try with either ethanol blend or toluene ( nasty stuff but lots and lots of octane ).

i had very clean timings with 40 percent ethanol , no timing pulled across the whole rpm band , it actually means no power has been left on the table

the problem with ethanol is , your high pressure fuel pump has to be able to provide a higher flow rate , consumption goes up .

if you use 93oct ( 98ron ) or 95oct ( 102ron ) , you will always have some timing being pulled . but hey thats just the ecu doing its work .

i dont know if aftermarket turbo's are available for the gsi . a bigger compressor wheel puts less heat into the air compared to a smaller one

its almost like inflating tyres with a small high speed pump , the nozzle gets bloody hot .

perhaps you could do a few 100 to 200 runs before and after installment ?

i really wonder if it would make any difference at all

your car should do stock around 25sec on a flat plane ( 100 - 200km/h )

Zitat von ackerpower

Ok, würde ich alle 10 tkm das Öl wechseln, dann müsste ich ebenfalls nichts nachfüllen. Logisch: Ich wäre dann ja gerade eben erst bei Minimum angekommen bzw. nach aktuellem Stand mal so gerade in der Mitte des Toleranzfensters. Von daher hat diese Beschreibung für mich irgendwie wenig Aussagekraft.

do you do a lot of short trips with the car ? lets say around 5 to 10km ?

i really do avoid this , heating cycles tend to use more oil .

i also have an lxd engine , but it is the 1.5 version . i dont need to add oil between oil intervals . i do change oil every 10Tkm .

when i drive i always try to keep the rpm above 1800 more or less , i dont follow the gear change on the display , using this engine at 1300 or 1500 rpm is useless . it also doenst feel right .

one thing is about the engine , the oil pump and counter balance weight are driven by a belt . i dont know if this is also the case for the 2.0 lxd engine .

i also cant find info about the service intervals of the belt and the chain.

if you want performance for your money , get a software tune and a catless downpipe or catted one .

LLK is only usefull when you are on a track or maybe a really really hot country .

one of my previous cars was a m140i , with the original intake and intercooler it made 491 wheel horsepower ( thats 500 plus at the crank ).

mods were : mhd and xhp ( for the zf8 gearbox ) software , a catless downpipe and opf delete and a hpfp upgrade ( bosch hdp6 ) , it ran on e40 mix ( 40 percent ethanol content )

the dragy times show the horsepower was a correct reading on the dyno .

when it was cold outside it did sub seven times 100 to 200km/h

when it was hotter , 20 to 25 degrees ambient . times were a few tenths off aroudn 7.2 7.3 .

you only extend the time before a heat soak kicks in . eventually it will when racing or doing nurnburg laps or whatever

but not some pulls on the autobahn . an LLK upgrade is for that reason a waste of money .thomas-m140-mhd-e30.JPG

100-200.jpg

could worn injectors be at the origin of this problem ?

do some gps runs before and after installment ( 100-200 km/h ) . you would be surprised how small the difference would be .

it gives a little bit less heat soak . you will need a tune in order to benefit from it , with a stock tune the difference is marginal .

if you want performance for your money , leave it , get yourself a tune and a downpipe

engines too complicated for most dealers ? , its weird they cant get it fixed

mein auspuff brumt etwas mehr mit regenerierung . verbauch auch etwas mehr .

The F15dvh LXD has a much different egr system compared to the 1.6 . The gasses are returned after the dpf .

So the inlet has very little dirt . not so clogged as the 1.6 becomes overtime .