now that you have a lot of data , what does it tell you , are you any wiser or just more confused ?
or is the engine just operating fine outside of a few parameters that trigger the code ?
now that you have a lot of data , what does it tell you , are you any wiser or just more confused ?
or is the engine just operating fine outside of a few parameters that trigger the code ?
ask them to give you the old one back , and perhaps you could take a foto of the part numbers
maybe you have a new revised one now , then we could check with our cars too
the water will be consumed by the engine ,
to fix this , i dont know any thing else to this day other than replacing it with a new part when you have to fill up daily .
its known for these waterintcoolers leaking fluid internally . but when you say verrust ? do you have pictures ? i thought it was made out of aluminium
can you preheat your engine coolant also with this system ?
any transmission fluid will always contain particles from clutch packs . its normal because when you use gears , clutch packs engage and disengage . they have wear over time .
this isnt a bad thing to begin with . drain plugs or fluid pans do have magnetic strips to catch those particles . they are very fine too , if they would find bigger particles , its from gears or bearings
and then you have a bigger problem .
but since you say the problems are not always there , it could be a calibration issue aswell . i wonder what your service garage will tell you
it could be worse after your flush . prolly some faults in clutch packs or the mecatronic controlling those clutch packs .
maybe its better to have it diagnosed properly and afterwards do your flush
a usefull explanation of things
my knowledge of the german language isnt good enough to write it down . but i have no problems reading it
your lower iat's can only be beneficial if you have tune that takes advantage of it . normally a knock sensor pulls back timing advance when things get hot .
so you will need more octane to compensate for it . you could try with either ethanol blend or toluene ( nasty stuff but lots and lots of octane ).
i had very clean timings with 40 percent ethanol , no timing pulled across the whole rpm band , it actually means no power has been left on the table
the problem with ethanol is , your high pressure fuel pump has to be able to provide a higher flow rate , consumption goes up .
if you use 93oct ( 98ron ) or 95oct ( 102ron ) , you will always have some timing being pulled . but hey thats just the ecu doing its work .
i dont know if aftermarket turbo's are available for the gsi . a bigger compressor wheel puts less heat into the air compared to a smaller one
its almost like inflating tyres with a small high speed pump , the nozzle gets bloody hot .
perhaps you could do a few 100 to 200 runs before and after installment ?
i really wonder if it would make any difference at all
your car should do stock around 25sec on a flat plane ( 100 - 200km/h )